A visit to traditional farm stalls is an essential element of any South African road trip. There’s something irresistibly enchanting about the smell of freshly baked goods, the authentic local staff and brightly coloured sweets in glass jars that make you long for days of old and, even if just for a brief moment, make you believe the rat race is just a vague rumour.
More of an experience than functional shopping
When you travel between the smaller towns in rural South Africa you’re bound to come across inviting farm stalls next to the road. And once you’ve visited one of these, you won’t be pulling into the parking lot of a mainstream franchise grocery store anytime soon while you’re on the road. The authenticity, rustic feel, fresh produce and warm ambiance of these farm stalls almost make you feel like you’re stepping into your grandmother’s kitchen rather than a shop. And more often than not, it is guaranteed that you will walk out with a few items or take a seat for some first-hand sampling of the goods, whether you need it or not.
A temptation of tradition that’s simply too strong to resist
On a recent road trip up the Garden Route I made a stop at a quaint coffee shop in Swellendam, a small picturesque town with a rich history and a whole lot of personality. After a thorough investigation of the menu, I decided on homemade lemonade and traditional milk tart – “made in a copper pan over the coals as in the olden days”, stated the menu.
Yes, I was a bit thirsty and, being one of those people who is adamant about having six or seven small meals every day, I could do with a bite to eat. (Whether milk tart qualifies as a meal or nutritious snack is of course highly debatable, but let’s not get caught up in the details now.)
The bottom line is however that I had some water and an apple in my car, but how could I not stop and order something when the beautiful stoep and massive oak tree that stands guard over the exterior tables, the jars of fruit preserves and packets of flavoursome fudge were calling out my name?
Experiencing the so-called good old days
After one sip of the tangy lemonade and one melt-in-the-mouth taste of the milk tart, I was in heaven. It was exquisite. I could almost hear the crackling fire as they prepared the oven and smell the warm milk as it oozes into the dish. For a moment I was transported to a time when everything wasn’t done in the quickest and easiest way possible. When ingredients used for cooking came directly from your garden, when families gathered around a giant table in the kitchen even before and after the actual supper, when creating something was just as important as merely consuming it.
Yearning for authenticity
Okay, I know what you might be thinking: There must have been something in that lemonade, because she is getting a bit too philosophical for a pit stop on a road trip… And you may be right – I might be drawing much more from this simple experience than necessary. But I am convinced there are many more like me: People who do love the thrills and excitement, diversity and technological advancements of modern society, but who sometimes want to savour something that wasn’t mass-produced, and do so without watching the clock. It is us people who stock up on buttermilk rusks and freshly made coconut ice and nicker balls for the kids (and for some adults too) and sip on tea and nibble on scones at farm stalls all over the country, simply for the sake of a culture of authenticity.
PS. I considered asking the waiter if I can get a tour of the kitchen, just to make 100% sure the milk tart was really prepared the way they promised, but I decided against it. I couldn’t bear the thought of it not being exactly like I pictured it, with a bright-eyed, sweating lady with hips as broad as her smile singing in front of the fire in her striped apron as she adjusts the coals. So I chose to believe my picture was true. That’s how I wanted to remember it.